My truck finally reached 100,000 miles and the stock Fox suspension is well over its suggested rebuild mileage(50k). The options are to rebuild the factory Fox and leave my truck on jack stands for a while or swap and upgrade the suspension.
At this point, I'm also thinking the 33 inch tires weren't enough. It's time for my 3rd Gen Toyota Tacoma to be rolling on 35 inch tires for the stance and capability.
People online warned of the expenses and modifications required to move forward but I chose to ignore the the noise.
I'm here to break down the Pandora’s box of expenses. What starts as a suspension and tires upgrade soon snowballs into a pricey project of expenses that you may not expect. Let’s walk through the costs, the upgrades, and why your wallet might need a pep talk before you start.
You figure, “I’ll slap on some 35s, add a lift, do some trimming and I’m golden.” If only it were that easy. To clear those tires, you need at least a 3-inch suspension lift which sets you back $1,500-$3,500+ depending on which brand and stage. I kept it Fox Racing since I have a TRD Pro.
In addition to the suspension lift, you'll need after market upper control arms to allow you to adjust your caster and push your tires forward to help with the rub of 35s. UCAs can run you $300-$700+ depending on your tire goals and how hard you offroad your vehicle.
Then there’s cab mount relocation to stop the tires from getting chewed up. I previously did a cab mount chop for 33s but that was not enough to satisfy 35s. I decided on the DRT offroad cab mount relocation kit. This kit was the best fitting kit according to reviews online. It was also one of the designs that is boxed in rather than leaving the underside exposed. This should be strong enough in comparison to the stock cab mount. Doing it yourself saves cash, but shops charge anywhere from $500-$1000+ for labor.
I ended up trimming the fender flares and the fender underneath while removing the fender liner. This left my Tacoma intake hole fully exposed to the elements. Luckily for you, I am created an intake hole filter that should help reduce the elements from entering your intake.
You might need wheel spacers if your wheels don't have the correct offset for the UCAs. That's another $100-$200. And don’t skip the alignment—$100+ every time, and you might need a few as you dial it in.
Finally the tires themselves. A set of 35-inch will cost $1,300-$1,600+. New wheels to match, $1000+. Wait, did you forget bump stops to prevent suspension damage? Another $300+. You’re already staring at $5,000+, and that’s just the start.
Part Or Labor | Supplier | Cost |
Fox Racing Shocks 880-02-418 Front Coilover | Amazon | $ 1,695.16 |
Fox Racing Shocks 883-24-007 Rear Shock | Amazon | $ 1,194.60 |
ICON 1.5" Lift Add-A-Leaf Kit | Amazon | $ 235.83 |
Fox Racing 803-00-732 Spanner Wrench | Amazon | $ 62.75 |
JBA High Caster Upper Control Arms | JBA | $ 593.51 |
Sway Bar End Links | Oreilly | $ 108.88 |
KSP 25mm Wheel Spacers | Amazon | $ 93.95 |
M6 Nuts and Screws | Amazon | $ 15.53 |
Fender Cover and Clips | Amazon | $ 38.39 |
Fox 2.5 Preload Adjustment | Town and Tire | $ 100.00 |
Wheel Alignment | La Puente Tire | $ 95.00 |
Falken Wildpeak AT4W LT | America's Tire | $ 1,419.57 |
DRT Cab Mount Relocation | DRT Fab | $ 276.43 |
DIABLO 6" Steel Demon AMPED Saw Blade | Home Depot | $ 32.66 |
Angle Grinder Flap disk/Cutting Disk | Harbor Freight | $ 30.00 |
Here’s where it gets real. While removing the old suspension, I realized my sway bar end links were completely gone, a trip to the local auto shop to add to my expenses.
Then there will be miscellaneous expenses like clips, nuts and screws and specialized tools if you're doing the work yourself.
Small costs that will add up.
Those 35s add serious weight, stressing your Tacoma’s stock components. Your CV axles and spindles might be enough for street driving but may snap while off-roading. Plan on $600-$1,200 for heavy-duty replacements.
Then there’s re-gearing to restore power, because your engine’s gonna feel like it’s hauling a trailer. Even with a manual transmission, I find myself revving into higher RPMs to get the thing moving. Re-gearing costs $1,500-$2,500 with labor, and while you’re tearing into the diffs, you might want to add a front locker (like an ARB) for extra traction adds $900-$1,300. Air lockers also require an air compressor so be prepared to shell out another $300-$800 including mounts.
Stopping power is another thing to consider. More weight to the wheels means less time to stop. My next step would be to do a Tundra front brakes swap which will probably run me around $600-$800.
To avoid drowning in costs, break it down:
Core Upgrades: Lift kit, tires, upper control arms, alignment.
Next Steps: Fender trimming, cab mount relocation, wheel spacers, bump stops.
Future Proofing: CV axles, brakes, re-gearing, front locker.
Scour Tacoma World or local Facebook groups for used parts to cut costs. If you’re not comfy doing things yourself, labor fees can add up fast. Shops can charge $80-$120+ an hour for most work, while specialized projects like cab mount relocation can cost even more. I, myself, chose to do most of the work at home with the help of Youtube.
There’s nothing like a Tacoma on 35 inch tires. Every dollar spent feels like an investment in adventure—but it’s a steep one. Can you stomach the cost? If your heart’s set on 35s+, pace yourself. For me, I needed new suspension anyway. It was the right time to upgrade. My bank account is crying, but in the end, I think it's worth it.
Perhaps in a few years, I may realize 35s are not enough or I may also consider long travel.